Wave runup on composite beaches and dynamic cobble berm revetments

Research output: Contribution to journalArticleResearchpeer review

Authors

  • C. E. Blenkinsopp
  • P. M. Bayle
  • K. Martins
  • O. W. Foss
  • L. P. Almeida
  • G. M. Kaminsky
  • S. Schimmels
  • H. Matsumoto

Research Organisations

External Research Organisations

  • University of Bath
  • BRGM
  • Institut français de recherche pour l'exploitation de la mer (Ifremer)
  • Universite de Bordeaux
  • Fundacao Universidade Federal do Rio Grande
  • +ATLANTIC LVT
  • Washington State Department of Ecology
  • University of California at San Diego
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Details

Original languageEnglish
Article number104148
JournalCoastal engineering
Volume176
Early online date26 May 2022
Publication statusPublished - Sept 2022

Abstract

The effects of climate change and sea level rise, combined with overpopulation are leading to ever-increasing stress on coastal regions throughout the world. As a result, there is increased interest in sustainable and adaptable methods of coastal protection. Dynamic cobble berm revetments consist of a gravel berm installed close to the high tide shoreline on a sand beach and are designed to mimic naturally occurring composite beaches (dissipative sandy beaches with a gravel berm around the high tide shoreline). Existing approaches to predict wave runup on sand or pure gravel beaches have very poor skill for composite beaches and this restricts the ability of coastal engineers to assess flood risks at existing sites or design new protection structures. This paper presents high-resolution measurements of wave runup from five field and large-scale laboratory experiments investigating composite beaches and dynamic cobble berm revetments. These data demonstrated that as the swash zone transitions from the fronting sand beach to the gravel berm, the short-wave component of significant swash height rapidly increases and can dominate over the infragravity component. When the berm toe is submerged at high tide, it was found that wave runup is strongly controlled by the water depth at the toe of the gravel berm. This is due to the decoupling of the significant wave height at the berm toe from the offshore wave conditions due to the dissipative nature of the fronting sand beach. This insight, combined with new methods to predict wave setup and infragravity wave dissipation on composite beaches is used to develop the first composite beach/dynamic revetment-specific methodologies for predicting wave runup.

Keywords

    Composite beach, Dynamic cobble berm revetment, Dynamic revetment, Swash, Wave reflection, Wave runup

ASJC Scopus subject areas

Sustainable Development Goals

Cite this

Wave runup on composite beaches and dynamic cobble berm revetments. / Blenkinsopp, C. E.; Bayle, P. M.; Martins, K. et al.
In: Coastal engineering, Vol. 176, 104148, 09.2022.

Research output: Contribution to journalArticleResearchpeer review

Blenkinsopp, CE, Bayle, PM, Martins, K, Foss, OW, Almeida, LP, Kaminsky, GM, Schimmels, S & Matsumoto, H 2022, 'Wave runup on composite beaches and dynamic cobble berm revetments', Coastal engineering, vol. 176, 104148. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2022.104148
Blenkinsopp, C. E., Bayle, P. M., Martins, K., Foss, O. W., Almeida, L. P., Kaminsky, G. M., Schimmels, S., & Matsumoto, H. (2022). Wave runup on composite beaches and dynamic cobble berm revetments. Coastal engineering, 176, Article 104148. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2022.104148
Blenkinsopp CE, Bayle PM, Martins K, Foss OW, Almeida LP, Kaminsky GM et al. Wave runup on composite beaches and dynamic cobble berm revetments. Coastal engineering. 2022 Sept;176:104148. Epub 2022 May 26. doi: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2022.104148
Blenkinsopp, C. E. ; Bayle, P. M. ; Martins, K. et al. / Wave runup on composite beaches and dynamic cobble berm revetments. In: Coastal engineering. 2022 ; Vol. 176.
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abstract = "The effects of climate change and sea level rise, combined with overpopulation are leading to ever-increasing stress on coastal regions throughout the world. As a result, there is increased interest in sustainable and adaptable methods of coastal protection. Dynamic cobble berm revetments consist of a gravel berm installed close to the high tide shoreline on a sand beach and are designed to mimic naturally occurring composite beaches (dissipative sandy beaches with a gravel berm around the high tide shoreline). Existing approaches to predict wave runup on sand or pure gravel beaches have very poor skill for composite beaches and this restricts the ability of coastal engineers to assess flood risks at existing sites or design new protection structures. This paper presents high-resolution measurements of wave runup from five field and large-scale laboratory experiments investigating composite beaches and dynamic cobble berm revetments. These data demonstrated that as the swash zone transitions from the fronting sand beach to the gravel berm, the short-wave component of significant swash height rapidly increases and can dominate over the infragravity component. When the berm toe is submerged at high tide, it was found that wave runup is strongly controlled by the water depth at the toe of the gravel berm. This is due to the decoupling of the significant wave height at the berm toe from the offshore wave conditions due to the dissipative nature of the fronting sand beach. This insight, combined with new methods to predict wave setup and infragravity wave dissipation on composite beaches is used to develop the first composite beach/dynamic revetment-specific methodologies for predicting wave runup.",
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AU - Bayle, P. M.

AU - Martins, K.

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AU - Almeida, L. P.

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AU - Schimmels, S.

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