Details
| Original language | English |
|---|---|
| Article number | 1 |
| Journal | Journal of Marine Science and Engineering |
| Volume | 4 |
| Issue number | 1 |
| Early online date | 25 Dec 2015 |
| Publication status | Published - 1 Mar 2016 |
Abstract
This research is to facilitate the current understanding of long wave dynamics at coasts and during on-land propagation; experimental and numerical approaches are compared against existing analytical expressions for the long wave run-up. Leading depression sinusoidal waves are chosen to model these dynamics. The experimental study was conducted using a new pump-driven wave generator and the numerical experiments were carried out with a one-dimensional discontinuous Galerkin non-linear shallow water model. The numerical model is able to accurately reproduce the run-up elevation and velocities predicted by the theoretical expressions. Depending on the surf similarity of the generated waves and due to imperfections of the experimental wave generation, riding waves are observed in the experimental results. These artifacts can also be confirmed in the numerical study when the data from the physical experiments is assimilated. Qualitatively, scale effects associated with the experimental setting are discussed. Finally, shoreline velocities, run-up and run-down are determined and shown to largely agree with analytical predictions.
Keywords
- Discontinuous Galerkin model, Long wave, Pump-driven wave generator, Shallow water equations, Tsunami run-up
ASJC Scopus subject areas
- Engineering(all)
- Civil and Structural Engineering
- Environmental Science(all)
- Water Science and Technology
- Engineering(all)
- Ocean Engineering
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In: Journal of Marine Science and Engineering, Vol. 4, No. 1, 1, 01.03.2016.
Research output: Contribution to journal › Article › Research › peer review
}
TY - JOUR
T1 - An experimental and numerical study of long wave run-up on a plane beach
AU - Drähne, Ulrike
AU - Goseberg, Nils
AU - Vater, Stefan
AU - Beisiegel, Nicole
AU - Behrens, Jörn
PY - 2016/3/1
Y1 - 2016/3/1
N2 - This research is to facilitate the current understanding of long wave dynamics at coasts and during on-land propagation; experimental and numerical approaches are compared against existing analytical expressions for the long wave run-up. Leading depression sinusoidal waves are chosen to model these dynamics. The experimental study was conducted using a new pump-driven wave generator and the numerical experiments were carried out with a one-dimensional discontinuous Galerkin non-linear shallow water model. The numerical model is able to accurately reproduce the run-up elevation and velocities predicted by the theoretical expressions. Depending on the surf similarity of the generated waves and due to imperfections of the experimental wave generation, riding waves are observed in the experimental results. These artifacts can also be confirmed in the numerical study when the data from the physical experiments is assimilated. Qualitatively, scale effects associated with the experimental setting are discussed. Finally, shoreline velocities, run-up and run-down are determined and shown to largely agree with analytical predictions.
AB - This research is to facilitate the current understanding of long wave dynamics at coasts and during on-land propagation; experimental and numerical approaches are compared against existing analytical expressions for the long wave run-up. Leading depression sinusoidal waves are chosen to model these dynamics. The experimental study was conducted using a new pump-driven wave generator and the numerical experiments were carried out with a one-dimensional discontinuous Galerkin non-linear shallow water model. The numerical model is able to accurately reproduce the run-up elevation and velocities predicted by the theoretical expressions. Depending on the surf similarity of the generated waves and due to imperfections of the experimental wave generation, riding waves are observed in the experimental results. These artifacts can also be confirmed in the numerical study when the data from the physical experiments is assimilated. Qualitatively, scale effects associated with the experimental setting are discussed. Finally, shoreline velocities, run-up and run-down are determined and shown to largely agree with analytical predictions.
KW - Discontinuous Galerkin model
KW - Long wave
KW - Pump-driven wave generator
KW - Shallow water equations
KW - Tsunami run-up
UR - http://www.scopus.com/inward/record.url?scp=85031281074&partnerID=8YFLogxK
U2 - 10.3390/jmse4010001
DO - 10.3390/jmse4010001
M3 - Article
AN - SCOPUS:85031281074
VL - 4
JO - Journal of Marine Science and Engineering
JF - Journal of Marine Science and Engineering
IS - 1
M1 - 1
ER -