An experimental and numerical study of long wave run-up on a plane beach

Publikation: Beitrag in FachzeitschriftArtikelForschungPeer-Review

Autoren

  • Ulrike Drähne
  • Nils Goseberg
  • Stefan Vater
  • Nicole Beisiegel
  • Jörn Behrens

Externe Organisationen

  • University College London (UCL)
  • University of Ottawa
  • Universität Hamburg
Forschungs-netzwerk anzeigen

Details

OriginalspracheEnglisch
Aufsatznummer1
FachzeitschriftJournal of Marine Science and Engineering
Jahrgang4
Ausgabenummer1
Frühes Online-Datum25 Dez. 2015
PublikationsstatusVeröffentlicht - 1 März 2016

Abstract

This research is to facilitate the current understanding of long wave dynamics at coasts and during on-land propagation; experimental and numerical approaches are compared against existing analytical expressions for the long wave run-up. Leading depression sinusoidal waves are chosen to model these dynamics. The experimental study was conducted using a new pump-driven wave generator and the numerical experiments were carried out with a one-dimensional discontinuous Galerkin non-linear shallow water model. The numerical model is able to accurately reproduce the run-up elevation and velocities predicted by the theoretical expressions. Depending on the surf similarity of the generated waves and due to imperfections of the experimental wave generation, riding waves are observed in the experimental results. These artifacts can also be confirmed in the numerical study when the data from the physical experiments is assimilated. Qualitatively, scale effects associated with the experimental setting are discussed. Finally, shoreline velocities, run-up and run-down are determined and shown to largely agree with analytical predictions.

ASJC Scopus Sachgebiete

Zitieren

An experimental and numerical study of long wave run-up on a plane beach. / Drähne, Ulrike; Goseberg, Nils; Vater, Stefan et al.
in: Journal of Marine Science and Engineering, Jahrgang 4, Nr. 1, 1, 01.03.2016.

Publikation: Beitrag in FachzeitschriftArtikelForschungPeer-Review

Drähne, U, Goseberg, N, Vater, S, Beisiegel, N & Behrens, J 2016, 'An experimental and numerical study of long wave run-up on a plane beach', Journal of Marine Science and Engineering, Jg. 4, Nr. 1, 1. https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse4010001
Drähne, U., Goseberg, N., Vater, S., Beisiegel, N., & Behrens, J. (2016). An experimental and numerical study of long wave run-up on a plane beach. Journal of Marine Science and Engineering, 4(1), Artikel 1. https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse4010001
Drähne U, Goseberg N, Vater S, Beisiegel N, Behrens J. An experimental and numerical study of long wave run-up on a plane beach. Journal of Marine Science and Engineering. 2016 Mär 1;4(1):1. Epub 2015 Dez 25. doi: 10.3390/jmse4010001
Drähne, Ulrike ; Goseberg, Nils ; Vater, Stefan et al. / An experimental and numerical study of long wave run-up on a plane beach. in: Journal of Marine Science and Engineering. 2016 ; Jahrgang 4, Nr. 1.
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